One of the most common ways to categorize cigars is by their shape and size. Although this sounds simple,it can be very confusing. For many years, the cigar industry has been using terms such as Corona and Panatela, which correspond to the approximate length and width of the cigar, not the manufacturer or brandAlthough most manufacturers use commonly accepted size names to describe their cigars, the actual sizeof a particularly named cigar can vary among manufacturers. In addition, cigars are now available in manymore sizes than in the past, and names have been created for these 'new' sizes. It is not uncommon to find2 cigars of the same size, made by different companies with different names to describe the size. To avoid confusion, it is easier to refer to a cigar's length and width when describing the size. The lengthis measured in inches, while the width is measured by ring gauge, which is the diameter expressed in 64thsof an inch. Despite all the inconsistencies with cigar names, it is still more interesting (and colorful) todescribe the different sizes and shapes of cigars with names rather than with numbers. This is all part of the cigar mystique. Names For Cigar Shapes You may never have to use the terms that refer to the shape of a cigar, since most of the common namesfor cigars are usually associated with their size. This is because most cigars are shaped like a cylinder, and are considered as having a parejo shape. A cigar with an irregular shape (e.g. having a cone haped head) isconsidered to be a figurado. The technical term to encompass both size and shape is vitola. Common Names For Cigar Sizes There are many names for the various sizes (and shapes) of cigars, but here are just a few of the morecommon terms that you may encounter and the approximate range of their dimensions. The ranges listedcan be even wider, despite any overlapping. NameLength Ring Gauge Corona5 5½ to 6 42 to 45 Panatela 5½ to 6½
34 to 38 Lonsdale 6 to 6½
42 to 44 Churchill 6½ to 7 46 to 48 Robusto 4½ to 5 48 to 50 Toro 6 to 6½ 48 to 50 Torpedo 5½ to 6½ 46 to 52 (Cone Shaped Head)
Here is a handy list of cigar tips for the aspiring cigar connoisseur. 1) Do not inhale the smoke when puffing a cigar. We want you to live for a long time! 2) Do age your cigars. After purchasing boxes or bundles of cigars, remove the cellophane and all other packaging. Then place the cigars in a properly maintained humidor for at least a few months before smoking. Single sticks stored in a humidor at your local tobacconist may be aged enough to smoke immediately. 3) Don't put a partially smoked cigar back into your humidor. Use a cigar saver or just toss the cigar. 4) Do select an appropriate drink to accompany your cigar. Select a drink that will not be overpowered by the flavor of your cigar. 5) Don't bite the cap off the head of a premium handmade cigar. Use a cigar cutter. 6) Do use a butane lighter to light your cigars. You can also use a wooden match, but before lighting your cigar, let the sulfur burn off after striking the match. 7) Don't snuff out your cigar when finished. Leave your cigar in the ashtray and it will extinguish itself automatically. 8) Do sample many types of different cigars. Try various kind of cigars at below market price by purchasing cigar sampler packs during sales and/or through online. 9) Don't store cigars in a refrigerator. It will remove the moisture from the cigars, drying them out.
Introduction The process of bringing cigars to be marketed is a gray area to most when outside of Havana. Tobacco is distributed in parcel based on vitola/vitolas to be rolled. This process is strictly controlled, based on region, vega, class, sub class, etc, required to achieve the desired profile. A number of a certain vitola may be rolled by numerous factories or not; they are brought to market as needed and the entire supply may or may not be exhausted. The same parcel/batch of tobacco used to roll a vitola can have varying date codes depending upon when they leave the factory. If a new order of the same vitola is rolled with a different batch of tobacco the issue then becomes the obvious: storage, rollers, etc. Some factories produce better cigars based on skills, management, etc as this is an artisan form of production. It is also possible to have two boxes of cigars with the same code, some being pulled from existing inventory and others from a more current batch, depending on whether or not more need to be rolled to fill an order. The following information is just that: information. Nothing can replace the knowledge gained by experience applied to your own tastes. Use this page to help draw your own conclusions and as a reference for your collection. Historical Factoids • pre-revolutionary boxes were stamped: "MADE IN HAVANA-CUBA" • 1961 this stamp was changed to: "HECHO EN CUBA" • 1985 Cubatabaco started using date codes • 1985-1995 a tobacco leaf (iron) is above Cubatobacco • 1989 Cubatabaco introduced the stamp: "Totalmente a Mano" • 1994 Cubatabaco changed to the Habanos S.A. logo • Factory codes may be encased in a rectangle (stamp) seen predominantly until 1999 • Typically varnished boxes that come with a carboard outer box have the warranty seal and code on the cardboard. It can also be on the actual box itself as well Definitions Box Code: A code stamped in ink of varying colour on the bottom of the box that identifies the date and factory of production Irons: The standard marks on the bottom of a box of Habanos. E.g. the words "Habanos SA" over an oval containing the words "Hecho en Cuba" over the scrpit "Totalmente a mano." All of these are "branded" into the bottom of the box by pressing a heated iron against the wood. Hence the term "irons" is used to describe these marks. As with all things related to Cuban cigars you should expect variation. Some folks have reported seeing irons that looked as if they were simply stamped in ink, but close examination revealed some indentation of the wood. Some were clearly colored (i.e., inked), not just burned, but which also showed at least a slight indentation. Original Cuban Box Codes Starting in 1985, Cubatabaco started using box codes as a way of identifying where and when any given box of cigars was produced. These codes are typically found stamped on the bottom of the box. They were never intended to be known by the consumer. The original box codes identified the date using the NIVELACUSO scheme. Each number is signified by a letter, as follows: The code signifies the month and year of manufacture. For example, the code NNSU would translate to to 1198, which translates to November 1998. Similarly, OESC would translate as 0497, or April 1997. Under the NIVELACUSO scheme, the month is not always signified by two numbers. Hence, a code of CSC would translate to 797, or July 1997. Original Factory Codes Havana Cigar FactoriesBM: Briones Montoto (Belascoain 852, Havana) - Romeo y Julieta CB: Carlos Balino (San Carlos 816, Havana) - El Rey del Mundo EH E1: Habanero EL E1: Laguito (2302 Calle 146, Marianao, Havana) - Cohiba FL/PL/PO: Por Larranaga (Carlos III no. 713, Havana) FPG:Francisco Perez German (Industria 520, Havana) - Partagas FR: Miguel Fernandez Roig (Zulueta 106, Havana) - La Corona HM: Heroes de Moncada (13402 Ave. 57, Marianao, Havana) - Jose Peidra JCS: Juan Cano Sainz - Por Larranaga JM: Jose Marti (Amistad 407, Havana) - H. Upmann LM: Las Mambisas (sub contractor only) Provincial Factories CFG: Cienfuegos CFGS: Cienfuegos (regional facility in Cienfuegos) - Quintero y Hno FD/PR: Francisco Donantien (regional facility in Pinar del Rio) LV: Las Villas MAM: Las Mambisas PR: Francisco Donatien (regional facility in Pinar del Rio) RD: Ricardo Donatien (regional facility in Pinar del Rio) SLR:Las Mambisas SS: Sancti Spiritus (regional facility in Sancti Spiritus) TLP: Lazaro Pena (group of factories in San Antonio) TTB:Granma (regional facility in Bayamo) TTH:Holguin (regional facility in Holguin)VC: Villa Clara VSC:Villa Santa Clara (regional facility in Santa Clara) In 1994 the Habanos Seal (sticker across the box corner) was added. It is not uncommon to see stamps in red, blue, green or black ink across the years. Cuban Box Codes - 1999 The original NIVELACUSO code was broken in 1997, thus rendering obsolete the objective of the code to prevent buyers from selectively purchasing cigars by factory. The penchant for seeking out Havana factory codes stemmed from the idea that some factories got the better raw materials. This is difficult to argue with those that have actual experience; Habanos S.A. would never admit as much. Allocations to factories is closely monitored now, hence less perceived discrepancy between factories. Thus in 1999 the box codes were reworked to a different scheme. The date code was changed to the NETAGIDOCU scheme and the factory codes were redefined to all use 3 letter codes. The NETAGIDOCU scheme specifies the date that cigars were boxed, and is translated into numbers in the same manner as the earlier (NIVELACUSO) scheme. Together with the 3-letter factory code, the 4-digit NETAGIDOCU scheme designates the specific date and factory of origin for each box of Cuban cigars. For example, a box of Partagas Serie D No. 4 cigars boxed at the Partagas factory in March 1999 would have a box ode EAT CCUT. (CCUT = 9903) 1999 Date Codes Date Codes starting from 05/99 ?GOO: 05/99 EPOO: 05/99 ESOO: 06/99 EUOO: 07/99 EAOO: 08/99 EOOO: 09/99 LEOO: 10/99 LLOO: 11/99 LROO: 12/99 1999 Factory Codes Ciudad de La Habana - Havana EGD: Carlos Baliño - El Rey del Mundo EDC: Briones Montoto - Romeo y Julieta EUN: El Laguito EAT: Francisco Pérez Germán - Partagás EOG: Miguel Fernández Roig - La Corona ENI: Héroes de Moncada ECA: José Martí - H. Upmann EEO: Juan Cano Sainz - Por Larrañaga Cienfuegos ProvinceOTC: Cienfuegos IOAI: Cienfuegos IIOOG: Cruces OET: Cumanayagua OIN: Lajas Granma ProvinceNAT: Bayamo NOO: Jiguaní Holguín ProvinceUNG: Antilla UDI: Gibara UAN: Holguín I UCE: Holguín II UET: San Andrés La Habana Province TEN: Artemisa I TEC: Artemisa II TND: Bejucal TOU: Güines TAE: Güira I TDC: Güira II TIO: Quivicán TCI: San Antonio ITNG: San Antonio II TGT: San Antonio de las VegasTUD: San Nicolás de Bari TTA: Santa Cruz del Norte Pinar del Rio ProvinceGDI: Candelaria GAO: Consolación del Sur
GCN: Piloto GNU: Pinar del Río GOC: San Juan (Rio Seco)Sancti-Spíritus ProvinceCEG: Arroyo Blanco COT: Cabaiguán CGI: Fomento CNE: Guayos CTO: Jatibonico CUN: Perea CID: Sancti-Spíritus CDU: Taguasco CAC: Trinidad CCA: Zaza del Medio Santiago de Cuba Province
AGE: Santiago de Cuba Villa Clara Province
DNU: Báez DDE: Camajuaní DIT: Esperanza DEC: Manicaragua DGC: Placetas DAI: Quemado de Güines DOD: Ranchuelo DCO: Remedios DTA: Santa Clara I DAT: Santa Clara II DNC: Santo Domingo DUN: Vueltas Code since 2000 In 2000 Habanos SA changed the code yet again. The new code uses a 5 digit alphanumeric sequence to define the date. The first 3 digits are alpha and indicate the month. The last two digits are numeric and correspond to the last two digits of the year made. Thus, December 2000 will be DIC00, January 2001 will be ENE01. CODE - MONTH ENE - January FEB - February MAR - March ABR - April MAY - May JUN - June JUL - July AGO - August SET - September OCT - October NOV - November DIC - December 2000 Factory Codes Factory Codes EOG, EAR - La Corona ECA - H.Upmann RPO - H. Del Moncada OSU - Partazas PEL - Briones (Romeo Juliet) CLE - EL Laguito (Cohiba) ARA - J. Cano LRL, SLA - Pinar Del Rio PUL, URE, UPA, IESC - Holguin URL, LES, SUA,CPV, RSE, PUC - Villa Clara VCR, DUO, REC, PAS, USP, APE, LUL, CLO, SRA, OVU - S. Espiritus CAV, ALV, SSU, VEL, SOL, PAR, SCO, LPE - La Habana EOP, LAC, SEL, PUV - Cienfuergos ACS, PLO - Granma OLA - S de Cuba LOC - Carlos Balino (Rey Del Mundo) 2000 - 2003 Box codes - Details LOC - Carlos Balino ( Rey Del Mundo) EOG, EAR - La Corona (note that SUA was used in 2000 according to one source) ECA - H.Upmann RPO - H. Del Moncada OSU - Partagas PEL - Briones (Romeo Juliet) 2000 - LOME, LQME 2001 - CLE - EL Laguito (Cohiba) ARA - J. Cano LRL, SLA - Pinar Del Rio PUL, URE, UPA, IESC - Holguin URL, LES, SUA, CPV, RSE, PUC - Villa Clara VCR, DUO, REC, PAS, USP, APE, LUL, CLO, SRA, OVU - S. Espiritus CAV, ALV, SSU, VEL, SOL, PAR, SCO, LPE - La Habana EOP, LAC, SEL, PUV - Cienfuergos ACS, PLO - Granma OLA - S de Cuba New factory codes in 2003 Once again Habanos S.A. has changed factory codes. Starting in May 2003 several new codes have appeared. While we are still seeing quite a few codes from the 2000 list above, so far we have been able to decipher a few of the new ones. Known 2003 Box codes GKI - Francisco Pérez Germán (Partagás) LLN - José Martí (H. Upmann) KMM - Briones Montoto (Romeo y Julieta) MKO - El Laguito (Cohiba) FRH - Miguel Fernandez Roig (La Corona) Factory Addresses and Known Brands The following is a list of some factories with their addresses and the brands they are known to produce. This list should not, however, be considered inclusive nor exhaustive. Factory - Romeo & Julieta Address - Belascoain 852, Havana Known Brands - El Rey del Mundo, Romeo & Julieta, Quai d'Orsay,Cuaba, Saint Luis Rey Factory - El Rey del Mundo Address - San Carlos 816, Havana Factory - Partagas Address - Industria 520, Havana Known Brands - Ramone Allones, Bolivar, La Gloria Cubana, Partagas Factory - La Corona Address - Zuleta 106, Havana Known Brands - San Cristobal, Hoyo, Por Larranga, Flor de Cano, Punch Factory - H. Upmann Address - Amistad 407, Havana (closed/moved) Known Brands - Diplomatico, Monte Cristo, H. Upmann, Robaina Factory - Por Larranga Address - Carlos 111, Havana Factory - El Laguito Address - 2302 Calle 146, Havana Known Brands - Cohiba,Trinidad Factory - Heroes de Moncada Address - 13402 Ave 57, Mariano, Havana Factory - La Habana Known Brands - Sancho Panza,Juan Lopez,Fonseca Factory - Pinar del Rio Known Brands - Vegueros
It takes time, patience and a little know-how to get a new humidor ready to hold cigars. This is a process referred to as seasoning or conditioning, and it essentially means that the humid environment that cigars require has to be created in the humidor. By following these guidelines carefully, you will have a properly seasoned humidor and enjoy years of trouble free service. Materials Required • One bottle of Madelaine Pre-mixed Propylene Glycol Solution • One Bóveda One-step Seasoning Pouch Step 1: If your humidor came equipped with a humidity regulator and hygrometer and they are already mounted, you may proceed to Step 2. If not, carefully attach the mounting devices for your humidity regulator and hygrometer, being careful not to place them too close together. Let the mounting pads sit overnight so the adhesives can bond to the interior surface of the humidor lid. After sitting overnight, the hygrometer may be placed in in position. For treatment of the humidity regulator proceed to the next paragraph. Step 2: Apply Madelaine Pre-mixed Propylene Glycol Solution to the humidifier until it will not absorb any more solution. Carefully blot excess solution off the humidifier and install on mounting device. Step 3: Open the outer package and place the Bóveda Seasoning pouch in the humidor for a period of ten days. The interior surface is made of unfinished Spanish cedar that will absorb moisture during this seasoning process. It will take approximately 10 days for the humidor to become fully conditioned. Add Madelaine solution to the humidity regulator if it appears to be dry during the break in period. You may notice the hygrometer will give very high readings during the conditioning process. This is normal and it will stabilize as the humidor seasons. After the 10-day period, your humidor is seasoned and ready to hold cigars. To maintain your humidor, add Madelaine Solution on a regular basis especially during dry winter months. The proper relative humidity for a humidor is 65-70%. This may vary slightly during the winter when we experience less ambient humidity. Sometimes a hygrometer may give inaccurate readings. To test the accuracy of a hygrometer, pick up a Bóveda One-step Calibration pouch from your Humidifier vendor. Be patient with your humidor, a little work and persistence will reward you with perfectly aged and humidified cigars.
I wholeheartedly subscribe to the theory that aging has a critical impact on a cigar's body and flavor. Initial aging after their rolling is essential to allow the cigar to dry and stabilize. Not only will this greatly improve the flavor, but also greatly improve the burn and draw. Stabilization typically takes only 4 to 8 weeks depending on the ambient climate, however allowing your cigars to age even longer will allow the flavors of the blend meld and mellow into a more harmonious smoke. A cigar's complexities and nuances will be greatly enhanced with long-term aging in a proper environment.
Also aging tempers the strength of a stronger blend. Many of the stronger cigar recipes possess a richness and depth of flavor that milder ones are unable to achieve, however their youthful bite can be overpowering to the palate. Aging these hi-octane smokes allows for their bite to fade, while leaving their robust and intricate flavors to be enjoyed by the smoker. Aging is always a good thing for stronger ligas. On the other hand, I am also a firm believer that cigars do not perpetually age for the better. Every cigar eventually hits a peak, and from there on it is downhill. So it is just as important to not overage your cigars, as it is to age them in the first place. The younger the cigar the more drastic the impact time has upon it; 3 months can mean a world of difference to a freshly rolled cigar, whereas 3 months are negligible when dealing with 5 year old sticks. Assigning fixed blocks as ideal aging time is impossible, each box of cigars is different, and it will respond differently to aging. With that said, here are some ballpark figures to use: • 4 Weeks - Cigars should be smoked within a few weeks of being rolled if you desire that "chincales" or "fresh roll" type of flavor. • 6 Months - 1 Year - After 4 weeks, I think it is important to allow cigars at least 180 days of rest if they are not smoked directly after their manufacture. I strongly suggest 6 months for milder blends and at least a year for stronger ones. Without exception, cigars smoke and taste better when allowed a year to age. • 1 - 2 Years - This is a good time to start smoking those heavier Nicaraguan and Hondurans. This is also the peak period for many Dominicans, and most light bodied smokes. • 2 - 5 Years - These are the peak years for most other cigars. Typically the stronger, full-bodied cigars age better over a longer duration. This is why Bolivar Fuertes, Ashton VSGs, and many Havanas are all considered cigars that age beautifully. The same logic applies to cigars of substantial strength regardless of their country of origin. • 7 - 10 Years - This is about the maximum aging time for me on almost all cigars. After this point, I find most cigars become too mellow and too pale in body for me to enjoy. • 10+ Years - At this point we enter the realm of "vintage" cigars in my book. Many of these cigars will be so flat and boring they are worthless to smoke, while others will take on unique characteristics that will make them enjoyable smokes. One such trait is a musty smell and a taste that is similar to snuff. Another rarer long-term aging trait is cigars taking on an odd scent that is commonly referred to as the "stinky cheese- like smell." This odd reference is due to their pre-light bouquet being faintly similar to a wheel of Stilton cheese. Though it may sound unappealing, these cigars are a delight to smoke and are highly prized by vintage cigar collectors worldwide. Many pay top dollar to secure these smokes. Regardless of the flavor characteristics of vintage vitolas, rarely do any of these cigars maintain any quantitative strength at this level of aging. Also, only the fullest bodied cigars have any chance of being worthwhile smokes after this many years. By the way, I would be remiss if I didn't tell you that most cigar makers disagree with what I am suggesting. Many are emphatic that there is no benefit in the aging cigars. Of course, it behooves them to dismiss the concept of long-term aging, as it is not in their own interest to retain cigars after manufacture. I concede that they are correct in their contention that their cigars are ready to smoke once they ship them, however, as I stated in the beginning, I strongly subscribe to the benefit of aging cigars. Time allows for good cigars to become great cigars in my opinion. I do not expect manufacturers to retain cigars for extended aging, long- term aging is not a practice for the average smoker, but rather a luxury embraced by the connoisseur smoker. There are many exceptions to the above timetable - it is only meant to serve as a rough guideline for your convenience. All handmade cigars improve with age, so before you dismiss any cigar as "bad" you should allow it to rest untouched for a while. You will be genuinely surprised how many of those poor cigars blossom into enjoyable smokes. However, please remember that aging cannot improve cigars that are made from inferior or under-cured tobacco. You should only age good cigars as they are the ones for whom you will be awarded from for your patience. The best way to determine the impact time on your cigars is to smoke one occasionally from an aging box and to take detailed tasting notes. I am certain that you will see drastic improvement in the quality of your smoking experience as you allow your cigars to age. However, regardless of the age, once you find a box is no longer improving with time consider the smoking lamp lit and enjoy them. Once you begin smoking aged cigars, you will discover that what I have described as a luxury will quickly become a necessity.
Almost always, the best way to cut a cigar is quickly and decisively - but before we get into how, let's talk about "where" to cut. The proper place to cut depends on the cigar. First, you need to closely examine the head of the cigar. You are looking to see just how far the cap (this is the round of tobacco used to seal the head) extends down the barrel. On a parejo (a parallel-sided cigar), this is typically 1/4"-3/8"; wherever the caps stops you should regard as your limit as to how far down you should cut. The best cut is one above this "cap line," which will open up 75%-85% of the cigar's surface. You want as large an open cut as possible to allow for an easy draw, but you do not want to cut beneath the cap line, as the cigar may start to unravel. Sometimes this means a thin cut of 1/32" is perfect, while other times you may need to cut 3/8" - it depends entirely on each cigar's construction. As I said before, the key to a good cut is to be quick and decisive. Once you find your spot, you should not
hesitate - just clip it. Quicker cuts tend to be cleaner cuts, however, you must have the right tool to do this well. The prime criterion of any cutter is that it be sharp - the sharper the better. Most single-bladed guillotine cutters are inadequate, so I suggest you opt for a double-bladed guillotine if
possible. Typically, double-bladed cutters work better, as the two opposing blades work together. However, there are exceptions to this rule. There are some single-bladed cutters that are great, and some double- bladed ones that are just plain junk. Single or double, what is important is that the cutter be sharp; if it isn't, you will just end up crushing the head of your cigar.
There are a quite a few other tools you can use to cut a cigar.
One that is frequently seen at cigar store counters and in the movies is a pair of cigar scissors. Personally, I would steer clear of these; they look cool, but most of them just plain stink. They are seldom sharp enough and it is very common for the smoker to torque the scissor blades while trying to cut a cigar, resulting in ruined smoke. If you do decide to buy a pair of scissors, buy the best you can afford. And be sure to practice a bit on some very cheap cigars before attempting to use them on a premium cigar. Another option is a punch cutter. These are very easy to use, as they simply punch a hole of a fixed diameter into the head of the cigar. All you need to do is line up the cutter dead center, and twist. Punch cutters can provide a very clean cut; their only real drawback is that most do not cut a large enough hole for 50+ ring cigars - but this may not be an issue for you. A unique cut is a "v-cut," which requires the use of a specialized v-cutter. This tool cuts a wedge-shaped notch in the head of your cigar. Another unique, but similar, cut is the "cat's eye." While the edge of the v-cut is straight, a cat's eye- cut is curved like a pointed ellipse. Both of these cuts tend to concentrate the smoke on the center of the palate - some folks swear by these cuts while others hate them. Both styles of cutters need to be extra-super-sharp to work well. A sharp penknife can also do an excellent job but, unlike with a cutter, you must slowly and meticulously cut a full 360-degree circle along the head of the cigar. Once done, you can remove the cigar's cap just as you would lift the toupee off a bald guy's noggin. This very same technique can be applied by using your thumbnail (or teeth) to gently pierce through the
wrapper, in a circle, to separate the cap from the cigar. Although a cigar snob would snicker at this practice, this is the most common cutting method used by those who actually farm the leaf and make the cigars. With a little practice, you can become quite deft at doing this quickly and cleanly.
And, if you managed to read all of this, here are a couple of quick, neat cutting tricks:If you lay a guillotine cutter down flat on a table, then insert the head of your cigar so that it rests against the table's surface, then clip, you will almost always take off the right amount on almost all cigars. ... If all you have is one of those cheap giveaway cutters, try cutting your cigar while it is still in its cellophane sleeve. This technique will produce a much cleaner cut, with a dull cutter. Don't do this with a sharp cutter though; the cellophane will actually inhibit a clean cut. We hope this primer on cigar cutting provides you with some insight and ideas but, in the end, how you choose to cut your cigar is a matter of personal choice. Whatever method works best for you is the best method.
Keeping the cigar band on or off: It's your choice whether you want to keep the cigar band on, or take the band off the cigar. One important point to keep in mind while removing the band, should you choose to remove it: do NOT remove the band first off. First light the cigar, let it warm up and "get to know it" so to speak. This will loosen the glue adhesive on the band. But proceed with caution when removing the band from your cigar, as some bands are harder to remove than others. Some claim that leaving the band on the cigar is more of a social thing. Cutting my Cuban Cigar: Many feel that using a guillotine cigar cutter or cigar scissor is the best way to cut a premium cigar. Be careful not to cut off too much of the cap. Some smokers use a cigar punch, a sharp knife, or a V-cutter and some even use their teeth. The most difficult cutting tool to use are the cigar scissors which requires practice. Lighting my Cuban Cigar : The best type of lighting device to use for cigars, is the butane lighter, although a wooden match will suffice. Paper matches with wax and high sulfur content can affect the taste of the cigar so be careful.But if you happen to be using a match, strike it, and then wait for the sulfur to burn off the match completely so you are left with a flame in a more pure form. Start by lighting the cigar at an angle (30-45 degrees or so), and a couple inches away from the tip of the cigar. Rotate the cigar until the foot begins to ignite, never letting the flame touch the cigar. Now, cautiously puff on the cigar while slightly rotating it still. This will insure an even ignition. Once the cigar is lit, let it sit for a minute as the short delay will allow the freshly lighted cigar to stabilize. Letting ash burn: The ash of a cigar is one to be left alone. Keep in mind while smoking, that it is not a cigarette. Leaving the ash on as long as possible, helps keep the cigar from overheating. If you pull from the cigar too frequently, it will overheat affecting the smooth taste of it. High quality cigars have a much whiter and solid ash than machine-made cigars. The qualities of the ash will be less Extinguishing and relighting my Cuban: By nature the cigar will go out if it's not puffed on at least once every couple minutes. Relighting a cigar fresh generally is not a problem either. Some partially smoked cigars can be saved for more than 24 hours, but the ideal timeframe to relight your cigar is within 2 hours of it going out. When relighting, hold your flame in front of the foot and blow outward to expel old gases and ash that may be present. After that, proceed as you normally would. When you are finished with you cigar, simply let it lay. It will smolder out on its own. Stubbing out the cigar may leave a stale odor to linger in a room. Storage and care for my Cubans: Typically cigar boxes are the ideal place to store your Cubans. Cigars, like any other organic products, require proper storage and care. If your cigars are properly kept they can be preserved for years. They should be kept from extreme temperatures (hot and cold), and away from humidified environments. Cigars like anything organic, moisture can be absorbed and dispersed. If you find your cigars to be dry place them in an unsealed bag, along with something that will retain moisture for days (small damp cloth, sponge, etc). Rotate cigars periodically to ensure proper moisture distribution.
Cuban cigars oome from the Caribbean, which has a tropical climate very different to Europe. As an organic
product, your Havana cigars need to be kept carefully. Their natural habitat is a warm climate with a relatively high humidity.
Therefore they will need to be protected from extremes of temperature and humidity (particularly low humidity).
This is particularly difficult to achieve in air conditioned and centrally heated buildings, where the air tends to get de-humidified and cigars can dry out very quickly. Some cigars come in aluminum tubes which can help preserve them in dry climates, however they tend to mature at a much slower rate than 'naked' boxed cigars.
Maintain a temperature of 16C to 20C and a relative humidity of 65% - 70%. Humidity At the very least, keep your cigars in a tight fitting cupboard, drawer or box, away from radiators and other sources of heat. Pick the coolest indoor spot in your house. Leave the cigars in their original boxes as this will help preserve them, stop them from being damaged, and prevent any cross-tainting of flavours between different varieties of cigars stored in the same area. If the humidity in your make-shift humidor is low, a damp sponge in a cup will serve as a basic provider of humidity. When you purchase your cigars from Cuban Lou's, they will be packed in an airtight bag, which will maintain
the humidity of your cigars while they are transported from Switzerland to your humidor. These bags are a very efficient short term humidor, however we would not recommend that you leave your cigars sealed in these bags for more than a couple of weeks. Although humidity will be maintained, cigars also need to be exposed to some fresh air to allow them to 'breathe' and age correctly.
If you are a dedicated cigar smoker, you should purchase a desk-top humidor or a travel humidor.. Temperature The danger of excessive temperature (combined with too much humidity) is that the cigars can either go
moldy or be damaged by weavil attack. If cigars go moldy, this is generally not a problem, as long as it is spotted reasonably soon and the mould (or bloom) only appears on the wrapper leaf. The mould can be removed with a soft brush (e.g. a badger shaving brush) and then the cigar can be returned to store in the correct conditions. If mould gets into the end of the cigar, we recommend that you do not smoke it. Weavil, or tobacco beetle, is a more serious problem. If you see any small holes in your cigar, you should take immediate action. Never store cigars near direct sunlight or for long periods exposed to sea breezes (salt will not enhance your smoke). The lower the temperature, the higher the humidity required to compensate.
Desk-Top Humidors There is a very wide selection of these humidors on the market. The basic design requirements are that they
are sealable (and generally lockable!), but allow the cigars to breathe. This is normally achieved by leaving the base of the box unvarnished: and no portion of the inner cedar box should be laminated. The box contains a fitting, which provides the humidity: this is normally a pad containing a sponge or chalk, which can be dampened. The box may also contain a dial showing humidity and temperature.
As a rule of thumb, the smaller the box, the harder it is to maintain a steady level of humidity within its confines. These humidors do not regulate temperature. Fabulous humidors can also be created out of antique boxes which many families have inherited as writing slopes or medal cases and which have since become redundant. This is a very cost-effective way of storing your cigars in a unique and personal humidor. Travel Humidors These are not suitable for long-term storage of cigars, however they are essential if you are moving about: the wrapper leaf on a handmade cigar is very thin and delicate and will easily damage. The safest way to prevent this is to keep the cigars in their original box, in tubes or in a purpose-built travel humidor. Cigar Cases Generally these do not offer humidification systems built in, but will protect your cigars if you take them in your pocket for the day. There are some metal tubes with hermetically sealed screw tops that will act in the same way as a cigar tube and seal in moisture. The majority are made from leather and offer protection from damage as well as limited protection from fluctuations in humidity and temperature. Reviving Dried-Out Cigars This is not an exact science and not always successful. Dry cigars need to be rehumidified very slowly and with care.
1. Get some cigar tobacco leaf. 2. Take some dry cigar leaf and put it in a plastic bag. Moisten it lightly with a fine spray and close the bag gently so that you don't crumble the leaf. After an hour, the leaf is supple enough to squeeze into a bundle, so wrap the bag tighter. This will get all of the leaf nice and pliable (after about another hour). 3. Take the leaf and remove the center vein. Set the leaf aside in the open plastic bag to let it dry until it is more leathery and not too wet. 4. Take the conditioned leaf and set it out in a line approximately 3 feet long. Get a good mix of different leaf. Keep layering the line until it is thick enough that when you grab a section and squeeze it gently, it will be the size that you prefer your cigar to be. When you actually roll the cigar, it will be a little smaller that this, so allow for it. It will take a little practice to get the right ring size (thickness). 5. Grab a fist's worth of the layered leaf and cut it with scissors about 1/2 to one inch on either side of the fist. Lay this aside. Keep doing this until all of the 3 foot length is cut. You now have your raw un-rolled filler. 6. For the binder, take a large leaf and make it pliable. Fold it in half lengthwise over itself with the center vein facing you. "Cut" the center vein out with scissors. You now have two halves of pretty good leaf (not your best leaf but a good one). The best, most flawless leaf should be saved for the wrapper. Cut these halves in half again, so that you now have four quarters that measure about 4" by 4" or so. The top of the leaf will be more triangular in shape and the bottom quarters will be more squarish. You now have four wrappers. 7. Do the same thing with a finer leaf, and there is your wrapper. 8. Make a mixture of 1/4 teaspoon of flour and about 2 to 3 tablespoons of water. You can work this out more precisely, but I would keep the flour to a minimum. I'd put my mix in the microwave for 15 seconds, stir another 10 seconds, and do it again until it's a thin paste. Usually about three to four times will do it. When you set this aside to cool, it will thicken a bit. You don't want a thick paste, just something with the consistency of pancake syrup. 9. Take a binder leaf and set it on your rolling surface with the thick veins (the underside of the leaf) facing up. Don't roll too tightly or you won't get a draw. On the other hand, if it is too loose, you've got something fat and weird. This takes a little practice. Do all your binding and set all the bound cigars aside. Now get your wrapper and do the same thing. 10. You can twirl the ends, cut them, or put that little piece of cap on the end (like the professionals do). It's your thing, right?
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